Santa Teresa Gallura and Bonifacio
The beaches not to be missed between Santa Teresa Gallura and Bonifacio
Sardinia and Corsica are among the largest islands in the Mediterranean, two real pearls and destinations sought after by thousands of tourists every year, renowned for their crystalline waters, unspoiled beaches and all the unforgettable experiences they offer, from canoeing to trekking, and from food and wine to diving. Whether you are a motorcyclist, a camper, with family or friends, if you are planning your next trip between Santa Teresa Gallura and Bonifacio and you don’t want to miss the most beautiful beaches, here is the answer for you. So sit back, get comfy and enjoy reading about all the coves to visit to get ready for your stay.
Rena Bianca
If you relish those must-see spots, your stay in Santa Teresa Gallura cannot fail to include a day at Rena Bianca, one of the most famous and instagrammed beaches not only on the island but in all of Italy. Like any famous place, it is difficult for you to enjoy this beach in peace: in the summer there are many tourists and for those who want to sleep late in the morning, it may be tough to find a spot to spread out your towel.
Fine white sand and aqua blue water paint a picture worthy of any daydream. The more perceptive here will also notice some pink reflections, reminiscent of Budelli Beach on the nearby Maddalena archipelago – inaccessible to tourists to preserve it in its unspoiled paradisiacal state. The secret is to be found in the coral grains that mix with its sand and tinge it with a soft pink.
Protected from the wind by a promontory on which stands the Tower of Longosardo, which was built at the behest of Philip II of Spain, from here there is an impressive view of the Strait of Bonifacio and Corsica. The most beautiful time to fully enjoy its splendour is certainly in the spring, when the scrub bushes backing it vibrate with an intense green and it is packed with purple flowers.
This bay enjoys every type of service, including refreshments and rental services such as canoes, SUP boards, and pedal boats, plus goggles and snorkels for snorkelling and diving. For the more relaxed, there is no shortage of umbrellas and sunbeds and – most importantly – a large carpark of about 200 spaces with a rate of 2 euros per hour or 7 euros per day for both motorcycles and cars.
The Valley of the Moon
In the western part of the Capo Testa promontory there is a quiet and picturesque valley which is golden during the day and white like the lunar mantle at night: the exact name is Cala Grande but everyone knows it as the Valley of the Moon (Valle della Luna).
Caressed by a crystalline sea, wrapped in the luxuriant Mediterranean scrub, this area alternates between limestone rocks and small coves. The area is inhabited by a small hippy community and it is quite common to hear music and singing from the bay.
At sunset, from May to September the Moon is celebrated on the beach, with large parties of bonfires and music, in full respect of the surrounding environment. It’s a place to escape a little from this world and time, to get away from the noise and crowds.
There are many coves in this area, though the most picturesque are undoubtedly Cala dell’Indiano and Cala Grande, but there are also other less known ones such as Cala l’Ea and Cala di Mezzu. Not far from the promontory, the Reparata coves are also well worth a visit, as well as Cala Sambuco, the granite pools of the Valle dell’Erica and the Conca Verde beach.
An enchanted place like this is truly peaceful and is also difficult to find. Getting there will take a bit of effort, but it is well worth it. The pathway that leads to the Valley is winding and almost a kilometre long, to be covered strictly on foot by taking the path from the exit of the village of Santa Teresa Gallura that is sign-posted Capo Testa.
The Valley of the Moon
In the western part of the Capo Testa promontory there is a quiet and picturesque valley which is golden during the day and white like the lunar mantle at night: the exact name is Cala Grande but everyone knows it as the Valley of the Moon (Valle della Luna).
Caressed by a crystalline sea, wrapped in the luxuriant Mediterranean scrub, this area alternates between limestone rocks and small coves. The area is inhabited by a small hippy community and it is quite common to hear music and singing from the bay.
At sunset, from May to September the Moon is celebrated on the beach, with large parties of bonfires and music, in full respect of the surrounding environment. It’s a place to escape a little from this world and time, to get away from the noise and crowds.
There are many coves in this area, though the most picturesque are undoubtedly Cala dell’Indiano and Cala Grande, but there are also other less known ones such as Cala l’Ea and Cala di Mezzu. Not far from the promontory, the Reparata coves are also well worth a visit, as well as Cala Sambuco, the granite pools of the Valle dell’Erica and the Conca Verde beach.
An enchanted place like this is truly peaceful and is also difficult to find. Getting there will take a bit of effort, but it is well worth it. The pathway that leads to the Valley is winding and almost a kilometre long, to be covered strictly on foot by taking the path from the exit of the village of Santa Teresa Gallura that is sign-posted Capo Testa.
Rena Majore
Located in the territory of Aglientu, part of the natural site of Monti Russu in the extreme northern tip of Sardinia, Rena Majore is a strip of small white pebbles immersed in the Mediterranean scrub and is bathed in a sea of colours ranging from turquoise to intense blue, surrounded by dark marine rock and light granite.
Famous for the swimming pools set among the rocks where children play at diving, and for its gently sloping seabed and abundant fish, a destination for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts who come here from all over the world for a short excursion.
The coastline is broken by the mouths of the Cantaru and Ciuchesa rivers, which cut through the tongue of sand, dividing it into three parts and making the coast even more picturesque, rarely very crowded and often used in commercials, including one with the Australian actress-model Megan Gale.
Behind, there is a vast pine forest that shelters visitors from the wind, a relaxing refuge on sultry days. For the most romantic, long walks on the water’s edge during spectacular sunsets will make a pleasant holiday leitmotif.
The beach can be reached on foot via an undemanding trail or by car along a dirt road of about 700 meters, which ends at a large carpark (you can choose between free and paid parking that costs one euro per hour), from which you continue on foot for a few hundred meters until you reach a kiosk bar and a rental shop.
Porto Pollo
If you are a windsurfing enthusiast, this is the place for you!
Porto Pollo (in Gallura Portu Puddu) is located halfway between Santa Teresa Gallura and Palau, facing the Maddalena archipelago, right at the mouth of the Liscia rivulet. It is an inlet of turquoise water that connects the mainland with the island of Gabbiani (or Isuledda) by a thin strip of sand.
Behind it, on the other side of the isthmus, is the Arenaria beach, divided from Porto Pollo by blankets of lavender, mastic trees and juniper. Both are a natural “gym” for water sports because they are constantly beaten by the wind, which is sometimes very strong, and much sought after by sailors, windsurfers and kitesurfers. On one side of the bay or the other, there will be either ideal conditions for surfing or else flat sea.
Its shallow waters make it not only a paradise for surfers though, as there are many children who love to play here among the waves, reassured by the very safe conditions; this also makes it a popular destination for families and less sporty people who can enjoy poetic sunsets, even in spots sheltered from the wind.
Obviously there is no shortage of rental facilities plus a windsurfing and sailing school, as well as bars, restaurants and campground. Parking is convenient and paid (one euro for the first three hours and 0.50 euro for the following hours; 0.50 euro for motorcycles).
Once you get to Porto Pollo, do not miss the opportunity to explore all 18 hectares of the natural paradise that is Isola dei Gabbiani, otherwise you will not forgive yourself!
Rondinara Beach
Have you ever come across photographs of beaches where cows graze freely? Here’s one… Rondinara Beach. An almost perfect loop enclosed between two promontories that stretch out towards each other covered with maquis shrubland; a thin strip of white sand and shallow crystal clear, turquoise waters: the scenery is so idyllic that this bay is one of the most photographed in Corsica.
In the height of summer, photography is complemented by the numerous yachts that drop anchor offshore and an expanse of colourful umbrellas.
The cows? Well, those can be seen, it is true, but not during the busiest months. Rondinara is beautiful and everyone knows it and is located halfway between the most touristic towns of the island, Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so the turnout is high, especially in peak season, so it is best not to arrive too late if you want to find a spot to spread out your towel.
Here you will find numerous services, from bars to restaurants to kiosks for renting canoes, snorkelling equipment and SUP boards. A large carpark has been built right by the beach, available for a fee during the tourist season (about 10 euros per day).
Rondinara Beach
Have you ever come across photographs of beaches where cows graze freely? Here’s one… Rondinara Beach. An almost perfect loop enclosed between two promontories that stretch out towards each other covered with maquis shrubland; a thin strip of white sand and shallow crystal clear, turquoise waters: the scenery is so idyllic that this bay is one of the most photographed in Corsica.
In the height of summer, photography is complemented by the numerous yachts that drop anchor offshore and an expanse of colourful umbrellas.
The cows? Well, those can be seen, it is true, but not during the busiest months. Rondinara is beautiful and everyone knows it and is located halfway between the most touristic towns of the island, Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio, so the turnout is high, especially in peak season, so it is best not to arrive too late if you want to find a spot to spread out your towel.
Here you will find numerous services, from bars to restaurants to kiosks for renting canoes, snorkelling equipment and SUP boards. A large carpark has been built right by the beach, available for a fee during the tourist season (about 10 euros per day).
Balistra Beach
If you are in Bonifacio and you want to take a dip in the sea without travelling too far, Balistra Beach, the longest in the area, is the one for you.
Light sand and turquoise sea, here parking is free and can be reached directly via a 2.5 kilometre long, slightly bumpy dirt road. The advice is to drive with caution!
Precisely because it is less known than the very popular Rondinara and Santa Giulia beaches and a little difficult to reach, Balistra is one of the most enchanting surprises of the island: uncrowded, unblemished and undeveloped to just the right degree.
The beach is not equipped and there are no rental facilities, but during the summer months (June, July and August) a small kiosk bar opens, offering snacks and drinks.
Here too the wind blows frequently making it much appreciated by kitesurfers and windsurfers, but also frequented by families and lovers of relaxation, far from the more crowded places. In short, Balistra is a beach with a little for everyone and for all tastes!
Tonnara Beach
Just 10 kilometres west of Bonifacio, this enchanting sandy beach in high season is very popular with both families and water sports lovers: well exposed to the winds, it is in fact one of the most popular destinations in the south of the island for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Given the wide open spaces, it’s not too crowded, unlike the many coves around the cliffs of Bonifacio.
For those who love naturism, there’s also a little surprise: walking about 15 minutes, following the coast to the south, you will arrive at Stagnolu Beach, where clothes are not necessary for a swim in the crystal clear waters.
Just before arriving at the beach, for those who want to take some kitesurfing lessons, a small school awaits you. Parking here is ample and free.
Tonnara Beach
Just 10 kilometres west of Bonifacio, this enchanting sandy beach in high season is very popular with both families and water sports lovers: well exposed to the winds, it is in fact one of the most popular destinations in the south of the island for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Given the wide open spaces, it’s not too crowded, unlike the many coves around the cliffs of Bonifacio.
For those who love naturism, there’s also a little surprise: walking about 15 minutes, following the coast to the south, you will arrive at Stagnolu Beach, where clothes are not necessary for a swim in the crystal clear waters.
Just before arriving at the beach, for those who want to take some kitesurfing lessons, a small school awaits you. Parking here is ample and free.
Grande Sperone Beach
At the tip of Sperone, just below the golf courses, there is one of the most beautiful beaches in Southern Corsica, the beach of Grand Sperone. It overlooks the open sea, so is often rough due to the strong winds that blow in from the Straits of Bonifacio.
Its sand is very fine and white, such as is usually found only in the Caribbean Islands. From here you can enjoy a breath-taking view of the Lavezzi Islands and even the coasts of Sardinia, when the sky is very clear.
The seabed slopes gently making access to the sea easy and pleasant.
It’s not too crowded even in the height of summer because to reach this dreamy little spot, the trail can only be taken on foot from Piantarella Beach, where there is a carpark where you can leave your car. The route is very easy and takes about twenty minutes, just a little effort that anyone who wants to get away from the summer chaos must absolutely make!
Well, with this precious list of more or less hidden gems and natural places to discover and explore, you can plan a day or even several days during your holiday in Corsica and Sardinia wandering between beaches and scenic spots just waiting to be explored and instagrammed!
To reach Sardinia if you are in Corsica or vice versa, the Ichnusa Lines ferry allows you yet another spectacle of nature to put on the to do list with a one-hour crossing in the Strait of Bonifacio. Planning a trip to Corsica to see the citadel of Bonifacio (we suggest you read the other article of the Ichnusa Blog dedicated to Bonifacio and surroundings), and the best beaches if you are in Sardinia is another option that we suggest, do not return home without seeing these wonderful beaches… if not all, at least some!
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